Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists alike praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their children do not want to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to discover these tales and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
